But possibly the best use of those bagels are the tartines on which Montagne builds gorgeous creations every bit as Instagrammable as toast from Iliana Regan’s Bunny, the Micro Bakery. About the only thing the pair don’t make in house are the bagels, sourced from New York Bagel and Bialy, upon which you can smear schmears along with things like fig jam and other house-made preserves. Montagne stands in full view at the counter, slicing shimmering, translucently thin sheets from the fillets like a surgeon, arranging them with dabs of mustard and Greek yogurt-based schmears infused with things like black lime nori and spiced mango pickle.īut that’s not all. Jasmine- and pastrami-cured trout and lime-cured hamachi are just a few options from the rotating selection. The emphasis here is on creatively cured, radiantly colored fish sold by the quarter pound from the display case that greets you as you enter. Now Montagne has resurfaced at Snaggletooth’s tiny bilevel Southport storefront, serving fish every bit as attractive as it was at C Chicago. Yeah, that profligately priced tanker had serious problems in the early days, but I liked Montagne’s beautifully composed plates, which you could imagine had been heavily influenced by his work as a sous chef at Le Bernardin in New York. You aren’t likely to see anything that fearsome at Snaggletooth, the Lakeview fish-centric sorta-deli from original C Chicago chef Bill Montagne and girlfriend Jennifer Kim, who worked with him at the River North seafood house before his dismissal not even a full year into his tenure. And the word originally refers to a particularly nasty looking deep-sea fish with a bioluminescent angler dangling out of its hungry maw. It also refers to a thick-skinned sociopathic artist/bounty hunter lurking among the other freaks in the Mos Eisley Cantina of Star Wars: A New Hope. It’s the name, for example, of Motorhead’s ferocious canine mascot (and its eponymous song). Until late February the term “snaggletooth” didn’t conjure many lovely associations.
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